Matt's father gives the honeymooners a lift to Dulles Airport, where we barely secure seats next to each other on the plane en route to Rome. We apparently have "that look" because a flight attendant asks, unprompted, if we're honeymooners. That's sweet, but ominously, she warns us that other couples have said Rome is not a good place to honeymoon.
Day 2
We take an amusing ride through the Italian countryside from the airport to the Civitavecchia port, narrated by Italy's version of Laura Ingram (based on gratuitous political commentary). Our luggage successfully follows our jet-lagged selves into our cozy cruise cabin with a balcony.
Day 3
At sea, getting over jet-lag, enjoying the whirlpool, formal night, and fine dining. We also discover that daily Mass is offered on the ship, and meet a nice Canadian couple, Helen & Basil, after Mass.
Day 4
Athens! Another plucky female local gives us a wonderful tour of the Acropolis. This is our favorite port of call because of the excellent tour guide, rich history, and great weather.
Day 5
Ephesus! We explore many important sites of early Christianity: ruins of St. John's Basilica, the House of the Virgin Mary, and ancient Ephesus where St. Paul once preached. Unfortunately, Lillian's camera stops working at the very first stop, so the few photos we get are taken by a kind gal on the excursion with us. Our nominally-Muslim Turkish guide leading us with his "lollipop" sign teaches us many things we didn't know about our own faith's history, such as the origins of the Maltese Cross symbol.
Day 6
Santorini - We take a classic fishing boat to the active volcano in the center of the ring of Santorini islands, and climb to the top. Matt is so fascinated by all the "earth science in action" that he nearly slips into a crater! After climbing the volcano and getting caught in a brief downpour, we explore the main town and run into Helen in Santorini's little Catholic cathedral (most residents are Greek Orthodox, of course). Together we gingerly walk down the 2 mile donkey path to the pier, and discover along the way that Helen & Basil are also going to spend the week after the cruise exploring Rome.
Day 7
Delos (pronounced Velos) - It almost never rains on this uninhabited Greek island, but today a steady rain falls on us throughout our 3 hour tour. Delos was a fascinating cosmopolitan city at one time, but we are too soaked and cold to truly appreciate the open air history lesson we are receiving.
Day 8
At sea - our last day to enjoy the amenities of the cruise line. We spend plenty of time in the hot tub!
Day 9
Arrival in the Eternal City. We find our way to our funky little hotel in Rome's "Chinatown" and take an afternoon tour of St. Paul Outside the Walls and the Roman Forum. After the tour we see the obligatory Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps and dine in a neat little bistro near Trevi Fountain, decorated with wonderful nouveau-catacomb-esq paintings.
Day 10
Together with Helen and Basil, we explore several of Rome's basilicas, and end with evening Mass and picking up papal audience tickets at St. Susanna, a treasure designated as "America's Church in Rome." You can see excavations of the homes of early Christian saints under the glass floor in the sacristy!
Day 11
Caution: Wednesday audiences with the Pope are overrated, especially the "sposi novelli" tickets. We bake in the sun for hours to get a look at the back of the Holy Father's chair as he speaks in English for about 5 minutes and other languages for about 90 minutes. Rude Europeans get in a shoving match to get close to the front while we're supposed to be singing the Pater Noster. Italian women cut in line for communion at Mass in St. Peter's Basilica. Matt and Lillian decide they've had enough of Rome, and plan their escape with the assistance of the hotel concierge.
Day 12
We flee Rome carrying only overnight bags and leaving the rest of our luggage with the concierge. Miraculously we make it on to the correct train to Forti de Marmi, including a transfer in Florence, and arrive at this seaside resort town at the north end of Tuscany just in time for the daily 2-4:00 shut down. But after finally procuring a taxi, we arrive at a beautiful "sunset boulevard" on the Mediterranean Sea. Our hotel features a rooftop jacuzzi from which you can see both the ocean and the mountains. The in-house kitchen is also superb for dinner.
Day 13
After a hearty and leisurely breakfast at the hotel, one more dip in the jacuzzi, and a walk on the beach, we ruefully have to leave Tuscan paradise to return to Rome for our flight home.
Day 14
We arrive at the airport 2 hours before scheduled departure as suggested, but still too late to obtain seats on the plane together! Lillian is left to sneeze on strangers, spreading the cold she picked up from Basil in Rome. On the bright side, we did not get tuberculosis despite being in Rome and Santorini around the same time as Andrew Speaker.
All things considered, we had a lovely honeymoon, but we will have to agree with the flight attendant about Rome!
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